3 days · ≈ 520–550 km

Samtskhe-Javakheti. Borjomi, Akhaltsikhe, Khertvisi and Vardzia

In this part of Georgia, it’s convenient to plan a route along the Kura Valley. First, the forested slopes of Borjomi branch off from the road, then a fortress appears in Akhaltsikhe, and further south you’ll find the residential areas and passages of Vardzia carved into the rocks. You can make the trip in three days with overnight stays in Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe. This way, you reach the cave complex after a relatively short drive. If you’re returning to the capital right after the visit, it’s worth choosing an early time and leaving the option to skip an additional stop.

Day One. Forests and Mineral Water in Borjomi

From Tbilisi, head towards Khashuri via the western route, then turn towards Borjomi. Upon arrival, it's more convenient to leave the car at your accommodation if the room is ready, and walk to the central park. For the first day, it's enough to stroll along the water and see how the town blends into the forest. The park is especially convenient after the drive: you can walk as much as you want, and if needed, quickly return to a café or your room. With kids, it's better to choose a meeting spot in advance if some of the group want to walk a little further.

In Borjomi, you can try the mineral water where collecting it is allowed. Grab a bottle if you plan to take some with you, and check the access rules for the spot you need. It's interesting to walk around the town as well as outside the park. Sometimes it’s easier to understand the shape of the valley and how the houses, road, and forest are laid out by looking from the opposite bank. For an evening walk, choose accommodation within walking distance of the center if you want to go out after dinner without a car. On the map, a shortcut across the river may depend on where the nearest bridge is.

If you’re planning a hike in Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park, set aside a separate morning or an extra day for it. The city route and the hiking trail in the national park require different amounts of time and preparation. Check with the park administration for current access conditions, the entrance direction, and the length of a suitable trail. For the trip described, the city park is enough. That way, the next day you can calmly head to Akhaltsikhe, even if you want to have a later breakfast in Borjomi.

Second day. Akhaltsikhe and Rabat Fortress

From Borjomi, continue through the valley to Akhaltsikhe. This drive allows you to arrive by lunchtime without rushing in the morning. The main attraction in the city is the Rabati Fortress, which sits on a hill above the surrounding streets. It's convenient to start your visit by exploring the courtyards and walls, and then decide which parts of the complex you want to see in more detail. There are areas with inclines and steps on the grounds. If someone in your group gets tired quickly, break up the walk with a pause and plan for fewer level changes.

The fortress is best enjoyed together with the city. After visiting, go out to the surrounding streets and look for a place where you can have a meal and just observe everyday life. From the heights, it’s easy to see how different the shapes of the neighboring blocks are. Down below, you can hear the voices, movement, and conversations at the cafés better. If you're staying overnight in Akhaltsikhe, you can reserve the evening for a short revisit to the fortress from the outside. The view from the residential streets changes in a different light, even when the inner courtyards are already closed.

Before going to sleep, prepare your things for Vardzia: water, shoes for the stone steps, and a light layer in case of wind. Check the opening hours and set the tourist entrance in your navigator. This cuts down on the morning search, when the sign points to the settlement correctly but doesn’t yet show where to park. Also, check your fuel supply. The morning is more interesting to spend on stops along the route if all the practical matters in the city are already taken care of.

Day Three. Khertvisi and Vardzia

From Akhaltsikhe, head towards Khertvisi. The fortress stands at the confluence of the rivers and is clearly visible from the road. To explore it, look for an official or allowed stopping point and decide if you want to get close to the walls. If a long walk at Vardzia is more important to you, Khertvisi can be just a short stop, and you can view the fortress from an accessible spot. Then the road goes through the valley, and the terrain gradually shows why many of the buildings here were connected to slopes and rock ledges.

Vardzia is a medieval complex carved into the rock. From afar, a row of openings is visible, and up close, it becomes clearer how the rooms were connected and how much effort it took to climb. Walk through the open visitor section and follow local restrictions. In narrow passages, it’s helpful to let oncoming groups pass where there’s space for two. If you want to understand the history of the complex, plan a tour in advance or take some time for the explanations at the entrance. For those who have difficulty walking on steps, it’s worth checking in advance which part of the route is accessible.

On the way back, see how much daylight is left until Tbilisi before adding new stops. It's convenient to first head back towards Akhaltsikhe, stop for lunch, and continue through Borjomi and Khashuri. This route follows roads you already know and makes planning stops easier. The southern route through the Paravani Lake area changes the scenery and the mileage. If you want to take it, check the conditions on the day of the trip and calculate the distance for specific addresses. In the calculation described, the return is via Borjomi.

How to distribute time

Two nights are enough when you want to make it to all three places. For a short weekend, you can set aside Borjomi and Akhaltsikhe, and save Vardzia for your next trip. If the cave complex is the main goal, spend the night nearby or in Akhaltsikhe and shorten the stop in Borjomi to just a walk. In warm weather, it's more pleasant to visit the open sections of Vardzia earlier, before the rock heats up. In the cold season, it's especially important to check the hours and road conditions because the day is shorter and the time buffer runs out faster. Your choice of overnight stay here affects the quality of the trip more than the number of spots you visit.

What to bring and how to choose stops

On this route, a small bag will come in handy, one that’s easy to grab from the car for each walk. Put water, a light jacket, and a phone charger in it. For Vardzia, keep your hands free so it’s easier to hold onto the railings. If you’re planning to have lunch outside the city, pick one backup spot in case your chosen café is closed. In Borjomi, it’s easier to spend an extra hour walking, in Akhaltsikhe exploring the fortress, and in the Vardzia valley it’s better to save that hour for the road.

If you’re traveling with a group, pick one must-see spot for each day and agree on a meeting point after independent walks. This way, everyone can check out the part of the fortress or park they’re interested in. On the way back, it’ll be easier to decide if you’re ready to linger somewhere else.

In Akhaltsikhe, you can ask your accommodation hosts to show you on the map a convenient road to the fortress and the route toward Vardzia. In the morning, this will save a few extra U-turns. On the way between cities, keep your next stop in the navigator so you don't accidentally miss the turnoff to Khertvisi.

Round-trip distance from Tbilisi

Tbilisi → Borjomi → Akhaltsikhe → Khertvisi → Vardzia and back the same way is about 520–550 km, roughly 260–275 km toward Vardzia with the mentioned stops. The shorter version Tbilisi → Borjomi → Tbilisi is about 320 km. Distances are rounded, detours to accommodation and bypasses are added to the calculation.